When Rahul Mishra designs a collection, it is bound to reflect his multi-dimensional thought process. From spinning sartorial saagas about the secret tales of ferrymen carrying travellers across water to imagining the colour spectrum from a bee’s perspective, Mishra is a maverick who believes in peeling off the exterior layers and getting right into the heart of the matter.
This season has been about introspection—of his subconscious and nostalgia carried by the memories that he captured throughout his years of growing, moving and learning. Landscapes have been an ever-changing factor in Mishra’s life, who hails from a village in Kanpur. “It’s all about what you see through the bars of a window grill—an homage to the transitioning realities, from my childhood recollections of the unending trail of fields to the concrete cluster of a cityscape,” he muses. The pink and orange sunset hues mirrored on the glass and metal of the towering skyscrapers, the tessellations produced by a constellation of buildings and patterns recreated through his picturesque memory of linear plains have served as inspirations for his intricate surface techniques. The fierceness of the ’80s and early ’90s, dazed memories of his mother’s brocades, corduroys and sequins are on Mishra’s mind this season. “The pieces from this presentation are a personal reminiscence distorted by seminal pop cultural moments of an era that is now blurred by trends of today,” he says.
A master of surface detailing technique, the presentation for fall 2018 is dedicated to sequins, the holographic trinket synonymous with the sparkle of vicious eighties. There is of course, the ever-present representation of his roots—this time through ‘kinkhab’, a brocade of the oldest form—woven in silk and gold or silver threads.
Summarised in a word? ‘Rhizome’. A botanical definition will lead you to believe that it is a continuously growing horizontal underground stalk which puts out lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals, but Rahul Mishra will tell you that rhizome just means the longing that stems underneath the eternal flux of your memories, impressions of the past.
Thursday, March 1 2018
Behind Rahul Mishra’s fall 2018 collection for Paris Fashion Week